SLOW SALLY & CREW

What kind of name is Capitol Reef? It sounds like a place from an underwater fantasy world, but guess what? It’s above sea level and requires hiking gear to explore, not fins and a snorkel. The park’s name is a quirky mix of its two most remarkable features. The massive Navajo Sandstone dome gave early settlers that capitol vibe, reminding them of the capitol building domes in Washington. Those rocky cliffs? They’re like a landlocked version of an ocean reef, making travel quite the adventure!

In this post, we’re diving headfirst into our Capitol Reef adventures. We’ve got all the juicy details to satisfy your most burning questions: “What did we like most?” “What did we like least?” “Where did we camp with Sally – our awesome little campervan?” But wait a minute! If you haven’t devoured every nugget from Part 1 where we explored the mind-blowing Bryce Canyon, check that out here first.

Follow along and join us now for Part 2!

1: Why Did We Choose Capitol Reef?

In 2022, we drove through Capitol Reef on our way from the Red Canyon to Escalante. I was mesmerized by the glimpses of massive white domes and towering red rocks through the canopy of leafy green trees that lined Highway 24. Spying hikers traversing the high rocky outcrops, I could imagine the panoramic views they must be enjoying. Since then, all the vanlifers we’ve talked to about Utah couldn’t stop raving about the fantastic camping spots scattered around the edges of the Park. That was enough for us – we were sold. It didn’t hurt that Capitol Reef is one of the least crowded out of Utah’s famous “Mighty Five” National Parks. You know us – we’re always trying to avoid the crowds.

2: What Did We Like Best?

The best part of our Capitol Reef adventure was the “backcountry loop” drive along and through Waterpocket Fold – the defining geological feature that creates the reef-like cliffs. This route would take us through 20 miles of unpaved roads, but the Park Ranger assured us that we could make it through without 4WD. He made it sound like a cakewalk.

Full of confidence, we headed south on Notom-Bullfrog Road (how great is that name?), into the backcountry. The views were picturesque, and all was well until we hit the unpaved section. The road was significantly more rugged and sandy than we expected. Marc kept our speed higher than normal as we floated along long patches of sand, hearts in our throats, praying that our wheels would not start spinning out.

The grand finale of our scenic backcountry adventure was the incredibly steep and winding Burr Trail switchbacks, which led us up and over Waterpocket Fold. The switchbacks were far more thrilling than those along the more famous Moki Dugway Scenic Backway and our relief was palpable when we finally reached the top.

3: What Did We Like Least?

The trailhead parking lots were very small and often served multiple trails. The best option to guarantee a parking space at the trailhead was to wake up with the sun and arrive at the trailhead bright and early. This was a challenge for Marc, who is not a morning person. We also found the midday temperatures to be a bit too hot for hiking when we were visiting in early May. Daytime highs were well up into the 80s and there was very little shade on most of the trails.

4: We Were Surprised By…

… the Mormon history of the area, including the expansive orchards and old buildings. The Fruita settlement was established by Mormons in the 1880s, at the edge of the Freemont River and Sulphur Creek. The settlers built elaborate irrigation systems to support their orchards and pastures. It’s surreal to experience lush, green grass, blossoming orchard trees, and a historic schoolhouse and blacksmith shop, set amongst a harsh, dry desert environment.

Within the historic district, there are large picnic areas shaded by tall leafy trees – the perfect respite on a hot, sunny day. The local fauna also appreciates the picnic grounds, and whole deer families snack on grass, wander around, and rest in the shade, just like the human visitors. They were so incredibly tame. We were careful to keep Walter well away, in case he got any ideas about a dinner of venison.

5: Which Trails Did We Hike?

Hickman Bridge (1.8-mile round trip)

The Park Ranger recommended this hike to us as “the jewel of the park”. It was short but more strenuous than expected, especially in the midday heat. The trail climbs up through sandstone domes and rocky red outcroppings to a 133-foot natural bridge and canyon views. The arch was incredibly photogenic, however, I did have to wait my turn while one couple spent ages trying to capture their perfect selfie.

Campground to Visitor’s Centre + Freemont River (3.4-mile round trip) *dog friendly

As hikes go, the Campground to Visitor’s Centre trail is not exactly thrilling. However, it does have breathtaking orchard and cliff views, and more importantly, your furry friend can join you! We made this trail a little more adventurous by combining it with the dog-friendly portion of the Freemont River trail, which is nestled between the river and the campground.

6: Where Did We Camp?

We camped in 3 different Bureau of Land Management (BLM) dispersed camping areas while visiting the park – each beautiful in its own way but the site along Burr Trail really takes the cake!

Highway 24 BLM Camping

A mere 2 minutes from the Park’s east entrance, this site was a perfect base for exploring the park. It was baking hot when we arrived and Marc took advantage of our waterfront location to cool off in the river.

Notom-Bullfrog Road BLM Camping

There were countless camping options available along the Notom-Bullfrog road, all within 10 minutes of the Park’s east entrance. We had a perfect view of Waterpocket Fold from our campsite.

Burr Trail BLM Camping

We found a few campsites tucked away high on the canyon top along Burr Trail Road. The sites were tiny but we had the place to ourselves and the morning coffee views were spectacular.

7: Walter’s Dog-Friendly Park Rating: 3.3/5 Stars

Walter here – reporting for my canine followers. Like Bryce Canyon, Capitol Reef was one of the more dog-friendly National Parks I’ve visited with my humans. I got to ogle many deer as we napped in the picnic area. I found the hiking a bit hot because there was no shade on the trails but I did gather enough courage to wade in the river and cool off. I also got to exit the spaceship and do some sniffing at the scenic sniff-outs.

• Campground – 4/5 Stars (didn’t stay there but apparently, I could if I wanted to)
• Trails – 2.5/5 Stars
• Lookoffs – 3.5/5 Stars

8: Would We Go Back?

No. Not because we didn’t love it (we did), but because after spending 2 days in the park, we visited all the “must-see” spots, saw a wide variety of landscapes, and left with a good sense of the place. We would consider returning in the future without Walter in tow, which would allow us to explore the longer hikes and the backcountry.

9: Our Tips & Recommendations

• Do the paved scenic drive. The look-offs were stunning, dog-friendly, and not terribly busy.
• If you’re lucky enough to visit during harvest season (late summer/early fall), you can pick and eat fruit from the orchard for Free!
• Don’t miss the petroglyphs along Highway 24. The drawings portray people, bighorn sheep, symbols, and what appear to be aliens (?)… who knows! They’re not easy to see so bring binoculars or a telephoto lens.
• Dare to complete the “backcountry loop” drive along and through the Waterpocket Fold, and:
  • if you don’t have a dog in tow, consider camping at Cedar Mesa – one of the Park’s backcountry campgrounds.
  • continue along Burr Trail to the town of Boulder, and stop for lunch at the Burr Trail Grill – you won’t regret it!

Stay Tuned

Stay tuned for Part 3 of this series – the finale, where we’ll share with you the Island in the Sky, the White Rim, and a very strenuous hiking adventure.